The skinny: On a recent trip up north, our (recently engaged!) friends Joe and Jill stopped for pizza. Upon their return, Joe dropped us a note to let us know about Elvio’s in Lincoln.
There are three pizza options at Elvio’s. You can go the traditional route with mozzarella and sauce (starting at $7.99 for 12 inches and $12.99 for 16 inches), a white pizza that starts off with ricotta, romano, mozzarella and garlic (starting at $7.99 for 12 inches and $13.99 for 16 inches) and the thick crust Sicilian (a 12- by 16-inch pie that starts at $14.99).
The menu lists 23 toppings, which include hot capicola, pepperoncini and pastrami, among more traditional choices.
There are only four signature pies here: the House, with pepperoni, meatball, mushrooms, peppers and onions; Veggie, with broccoli, eggplant, pepper, mushroom, onion and garlic; the Great White, a white pie with broccoli and tomatoes; and the Meat Lovers, with pepperoni, meatball, sausage, bacon, hot capicola and garlic. All signature pizzas are $11.99 for a 12-inch, $18.99 for a 16-inch and $20.99 for Sicilian.
Calzones are also available, starting at $5.99.
Review: We hadn’t had a Sicilian pizza in a while, so we ordered one with meatballs on it ($16.98).
The crust was seriously thick. Deidre noticed a sign on the wall noting Elvio’s 2006 win in the Best of New Hampshire contest for thick crust pizza — and we could quickly see why. Deidre found the thickness a little deceiving upon first glance, because once she bit into a slice, she noticed it was fairly light. Andrew thought it was a perfect rendition of a Sicilian-style pizza — light and doughy inside, with crunchy edges. That said, this pizza was still very filling. We didn’t even finish half, so we had plenty to bring home.
Andrew loved the huge chunks of meatball, which were still moist – not an easy task after a pass through a pizza oven. The meatball has a nice zest to it, which made it stand out that much more. Deidre liked the tenderness of the meatballs, which she says are the “real deal,” and she enjoyed seeing the seasoning that made the meatballs what they were.
Andrew thought the sauce was laid on fairly thick, but the amount seemed perfect. Surprisingly, Deidre thought the amount of sauce was a little on the light side, and to her, that seemed perfect. Hmmm… Andrew thought it was a neutral sauce, somewhere in between sweet and zesty.
The mozzarella cheese was also laid on fairly thick, but again, that was just fine with us. Deidre noted that it was a little on the greasy side, and the gooeyness of the cheese meant it took a couple of tries to get the full slice onto her plate.
With the thickness (and heft) of the pizza, Andrew was a bit worried it might get a bit tough in the fridge. He was surprised then, when the crust was pretty much as it was before — crunchy on the edges and light and doughy inside. Even the meatball was still super tasty the next day.
Rating: Deidre: 5 / Andrew: 5 = 10/10 slices
Elvio’s Pizzeria & Restaurant
165 Main St., Lincoln